Held Captive in a Cab
August 30-September 10, 2025
Athens, the cradle of western civilization and democratic principles, is sprawling and, in most places, nondescript as far as architecture is concerned. The historic sites, such as the Acropolis, are awesome. To think that many of the greats of history walked these areas is humbling. Prior to leaving for Greece, I had a day of infusions for my multiple myeloma and I slept little on the flight over. Even arriving two days early so that we could tour the historic sites before boarding our cruise, I was “out of it.” Thankfully, we had been to these sites several years before. Still, I powered forward as long as I could. Eventually, I told Kathy, “I’m done,” and got an Uber back to our hotel. She stayed with our travel friends at my encouragement. Upon arrival at the hotel I began to exit the Uber cab and the driver said, “You have to pay!” I replied, “I have paid on the Uber app.” He said, “NO—this is a cash only cab,” and he would not accept that I had paid through Uber. He finally said that Uber would have to refund me. I had no cash—I had left it with Kathy. The stand-off began! I was so tired I wanted to just lay down and sleep in the cab. On the narrow street in front on the hotel, cars began to line up and honk. My brain was in a fog! I should have said, “Let’s call the police and have them settle this,” but did’t even think of that. Finally, the cash cab became a credit card cab, and I paid for my ride a second time at a rate higher than what I had already paid to Uber. I needed to sleep and, once in the hotel room, collapsed on the bed, not even removing my shoes to sleep, sleep, sleep!
Greek cooking class—six courses—was wonderful. I cannot spell nor pronounce the foods we prepared. Twelve of our travel friends had a fun time eating the foods we prepared. Friend Melisa was excited to try the Greek dessert donuts we had prepared. The lead chef placed a bowl of fried donut hole shaped delicacies covered in honey and cinnamon in front of me. Melisa rushed over to grab one. As she pushed one into her mouth, I cried, “Melisa, they are raw!” Her eyes widened in fear; her mouth froze, and her hand instinctively went to her mouth. I started laughing hysterically, and she realized I was kidding. Still days later, she has not talked to me :-).
One evening meal, we walked to a highly recommended restaurant near our hotel. My whole squid—tentacles and all—stuffed with feta and tomatoes was supremely delicious.
Our cruise of the Greek Isles and Istanbul (two days) and Ephesus in Turkey has been delightful. The white (lime) washed cities, often lining the mountainous cliffs overlooking the clear blue and turquoise waters below, were enchanting. Blue-domed Greek Orthodox churches dotted the heights and old Greek windmills added a unique aura as we walked the hand-laid smooth stone lanes. Istanbul was impressive, and our group of friends frequently commented on how clean and “beating expectations” it was. The Blue Mosque, however, was less than I expected. Still, the intricate blue tiles were beautiful. The Hagia Sophia, the ancient and magnificent Christian Church, was faded glory since so much of it is covered over inside. It is now a mosque and any mosaics with human images that can be seen by worshipers are covered over since Islam forbids such imagery in worship spaces. Ancient Ephesus, where the Apostle Paul was persecuted and where an early Christian congregation was founded, has magnificent ruins. Stone columns line the 3000 year old stone street that leads the way to the proudly standing tall Library of Celsus. Two amphitheaters, one seating 25,000, draw attention. It is hard to believe that 80% of the city has yet to be excavated.
The fan favorite port of our travel buddies is Rhodes. Santorini and Mykonos were wonderful, but Rhodes was not only accessible, but architecturally different, since it contained many Byzantine elements including the stone walls and round towers that ringed the city. The port where the mighty Colossus of Rhodes (one of the ancient world’s seven wonders) once stood still beckons with its clear waters.
There were nineteen in our friends’ group that traveled this far; fourteen of us will continue on to Milan tomorrow.
WEG
The Doomed Cathedral of Beauvais
I was somewhat in trepidation walking into the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Beauvais, France. One could see how a patchwork of bracing keeps what remains standing. The cathedral is both imposing and sad. The vision was to build the largest cathedral in France, possibly even the world, back in the 13th Century. Construction began quickly and effectively and soon a transept and the choir (altar and music area) arose. It was majestic–the highest interior height (still to this day) achieved in the gothic form. Then, one by one, calamities struck. Part of the 154 foot high vaulting over the choir collapsed and repair work took needed funds from other projects. The nave was never to be built because of a fateful decision to build the highest spire ever conceived over the altar before construction on the nave began. Sure enough, reaching 492 feet in height, the spire made the cathedral the tallest building in the world until it began to move and finally collapsed in 1537. If the nave had been built first, as originally planned, it is highly possible the spire would not have fallen. Wars, especially the 100 Years War, came and went, and funds dried up. Then, during the French Revolution, anti-clerical elements destroyed the statuary that was a hallmark of the exterior, and interior treasures in the cathedral were hauled away. Later, the Beauvais Cathedral became a patchwork as efforts were made to conserve what remained.
What remains is still imposing! The one transept and the choir are immense and show how glorious the entire cathedral would have been. We took time to view the cathedral’s beautiful astronomical clock containing 90,000 components and 50 moving figurines including numerous functions it can fulfill. It played and chimed and figures danced as we watched.
The rest of Beauvais is small city France, and we enjoyed walking the streets and finding patisseries. Tomorrow, we train to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle airport (less than an hour away) for an EasyJet flight to Copenhagen and the next day a flight home. We have thoroughly enjoyed our trip and yet, we are happy to return home, God willing, to our family and friends!
Blog “Of the Moment”
We had been to Rouen, France, several years ago, and I was determined to return! We have not been disappointed! Rouen, like many cities in Europe, has a cobblestoned medieval center. There is something special about Rouen. Its half-timbered buildings stand proudly . Almost around every turn there are gothic spires and massive gothic buildings clad in marble. Bells peal regularly. The Roman Catholic Notre Dame cathedral is immense, and its many entrances have amazingly delicate statuary on the portals. Rollo, the great Viking warrior and first Duke of Normandy, is buried within. His Royal line influenced history over and over again. One would think that with such a large church there would be few others in the vicinity; however, within easy walking distance other huge churches appear. They are all beautiful. Hotels and government buildings are interspersed and have appealing architecture. High-end department stores and small speciality shops along with outdoor cafes and bistros add to the city’s charm. Rouen is a special place!
I was able to find the restaurant at which we had eaten the last time we were here. I had one goal in mind–drink the cherry beer! It was still here and on tap–tap is the best way to drink cherry beer–it is not the same from a bottle or can. Kathy is not a fan–she said it tastes like Luden’s cough drops–Oh, how I love Luden’s cough drops! We have had a wonderful two days strolling and stopping to browse or popping in for a hot chocolate (or cherry beer) or sitting quietly in a beautiful worship space. The sun was bright today and people crowded the outdoor cafes. This has been what I wanted this adventure to be–no rush, just beauty and relaxation. Absolutely, there is something special about Rouen.
Getting out of Rouen was something else! We did not know that the city marathon was being run and all the streets were blocked around the old town which was where our hotel was located. “No taxi,” we were informed; in fact, no cars at all. We would have to walk all the way to the central train station or walk to the nearest metro rail (about 20 minutes) and ride it to the station with our luggage. We left early to give us wiggle room and walked to the metro station. When we arrived we noticed that the stairs to the metro were three flights deep with no lift, and we had luggage. Wonderfully, a policeman came to our rescue and actually helped carry our luggage down for us. I was able to figure out the ticket machine. We waited ten minutes for our metro to arrive and rode it to the station. Once there, we had to find our platform and, once again, it was several flights down with no lift. A kind passenger helped Kathy with hers, and I struggled mine down. With a sigh of relief we settled into our train seats with four minutes to spare! The helpfulness of the French was amazing and much appreciated!
We arrived in Amiens, and our hotel held our luggage for us since we arrived so early. We walked immediately to the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame, the largest church building in France. Imposing, yes, but also beautiful! The entrance portals are stunning with hundreds of statues of Biblical characters and scenes. They are as beautiful as any we have seen, if not more so. The interior is daunting, with massive side aisles that are larger than many cathedral’s main aisle. The main aisle is immense and tall. Transepts sweep to the sides and numerous large chapels line the whole interior. We were informed that Paris’s Notre Dame could easily fit inside with room to spare. It was Sunday, and most everything was closed; however, we found a Bistro open near the cathedral, and its special was quite appealing–roasted chicken in a tasty sauce, salad, and frites (French fries). We ambled back to the hotel and checked in for a relaxing night.
Amiens is very different from Rouen. Almost no half-timbered buildings could be seen. Instead, marble and brick buildings in eclectic styles line the streets. Canals run through the city, and we walked along them as we headed to the floating gardens biological area of the city. We purchased tickets for the small canal boat ride (40 minutes) that coursed its way along narrow canals and past all types of vegetation. Small vacation rentals line parts of the canals. Flower season is mainly passed, but the river was clear, the air crisp, the sun shining, and we enjoyed our outing.
Over the past few days–September 27-30–we have experienced much in areas not heavily touristed in France. Several fascinating items stand out for some reason: *Camembert hamburgers–thick melting Camembert over the beef burger with sautéed onions–a taste bud sensation and regional favorite. *Macaroons–they are advertised as the best in France–double macaroons held together with fruit paste; chocolate-covered macaroons; coconut macaroons–all fantastic. We found the patisserie that is famous for its macaroons and ate our fill! *The phrase, “of the moment,” will be a new vocabulary addition when we return home, as in, “soup of the moment” rather than “of the day.” Travel teaches one much, and I am thankful I am still a learner.
The Honeymoon is Over
After 53 years of a charmed life with Kathy, the honeymoon is over! And over something so trivial. She called me an “oaf!” Never called me anything ever in the past, except, my love or sweetheart. I have to tell you, I was in shock! More about this down below.
We had three remaining port calls before our cruise was to end in Le Havre, France, on September 27. We spent a wonderful day in Amsterdam. Having been numerous times we decided to simply walk around the city and enjoy its ambiance, especially since it was a pleasant day. We purchased a day tram ticket for the longer jaunts and had no problem using it, especially combined with the iPhone map app. that shows transit stops and tram numbers to take to your destination — so simple. We accidentally found a bar/restaurant that we had enjoyed with friends in the past and paused there for a soup lunch. Flowers were still in bloom in planters, and the canals were charming as always. We did walk through a neighborhood in the De Pijp section of the city. Narrow tree-lined streets and quaint, eclectic shops along the way, one with antique Tiffany lamps beckoned. As we walked, I noticed a brass plaque insert on the pavement in front of a house. Upon inspection, it was indeed a reminder that this had been the home of a Jew murdered in the holocaust–sobering and with the personal admonition to “Never Forget.” The Albert Kruptmart street market was in full swing, and we meandered amongst the stalls, alas, not stopping at the freshly-made stroopwaffel stalls. On the way back to the ship, we observed the beautiful Roman Catholic Basilica was open. We took a few contemplative minutes inside its warm-colored interior. It was a most enjoyable day!
Our port call to the Port of London in Tilbury, England, was something else! We wanted to spend most of our port days relaxing in beautiful settings and we only took one off-ship tour to see the Schwerin Castle in Germany. We had wonderful experiences all along the way…except in Tilbury! There is no there, there! Industrial, the tiny town had nothing of interest to us. Most folks had taken tours to London and missed all the e.x.c.i.t.e.m.e.n.t of Tilbury. We wanted a relaxing walk and that was not to be. Our path to town was strewn with trash, narrow, and for a good part of the way, along a major highway with semis rushing past about eight feet away. We felt the constant swoosh of air. When we finally reached the town, we couldn’t help but laugh at the nothingness of it all. At least we had clocked in over two miles of walking. Once back on board the empty ship, we took advantage of the hot tub! Our evening show in the theatre was entertaining–a ship’s finale to earth’s elements in dance, song and magic. Performers were above us on ropes, in the aisles, and on stage during the rousing numbers.
As for the honeymoon being over… In the early morning, we headed for breakfast at the breakfast buffet; usually, I find a place to sit while Kathy gets her breakfast. This time she was in front of me and selected a seat on the “wrong” side–wrong, because it looked over the docks and did not provide a view of the city of Amsterdam. I would have picked the city side automatically. This put me in a dour mood. Thus, I became an “oaf.”
THIS IS KATHY–I DID NOT CALL WAYNE AN “OAF!” WHEN HE APOLOGETICALLY SAID HE WAS ACTING LIKE AN OAF, I SIMPLY SMILED AND SLIGHTLY NODDED MY HEAD.
As I told her, agreeing with my statement that I was behaving like an oaf was the same thing as calling me an oaf. She simply smiled and slightly nodded her head. I understand this is trivial; irrational; however, I was thinking: if I died soon or first, Kathy would not know the things I do automatically, like picking the best seats, etc. …things I do automatically because I want the best for her. I became afraid and was reacting out of that fear because I theorized she would settle for second best when I die. I wouldn’t want that for her. (I realize that if she remarries after I die she would be settling for second best–but that would not be her fault.) When you have cancer, you think about these things!
Today, our last full day on board the Norwegian Dawn was spent in Bruges, Belgium. We love this old medieval city that time forgot and thus was left in glorious charm and beauty. We walked amongst the historic architecture and felt “good.” We stopped in a waffle restaurant and enjoyed the best waffle I have ever eaten. Light, yet solid, the waffle was topped with luscious warm Dutch chocolate and bananas. It was accompanied with whipped cream, eggnog sauce and vanilla ice cream. Decadent and delicious! We thought this was a wonderful last day for our cruise. Tonight we eat in a specialty French Bistro onboard and pack for disembarkation tomorrow. That is it for now from your friendly Oaf!
The Unexpected Oslo
Oslo was not at all what I expected. I thought it would be like many European cities with a defined “old town” with cobblestone streets and historic buildings. Not at all! We were treated to a casual, yet striking, modernity with water, water, everywhere, and flowers. Oslo is built along a fjiord and settles into the landscape with graceful style on Norway’s eastern shores. It is built with walking in mind and wonderful trails with interesting pedestrian bridges abound.
There is an older part of the city; however, it does not appear old in the sense of Middle Ages old. There are belle epoch and clean Nordic style structures situated along wide streets with flower plantings at close intervals along the way. Fountains and statuary appear close to flower-surrounded “knobby” trees. A wide boulevard rises through a large park leading to the Royal Palace sitting at the top of the hill creating a commanding presence. We walked the distance, about a mile, from the Royal Palace to the Palace Cathedral of the Church of Norway-Lutheran. Here the Royal Family worships and are married, baptized and buried. With painted ceilings and Royal box seats, it is beautiful.
We had bought tickets on a “hop on hop off” bus, but spent so much time along the waterfront and in the central city that we were mostly “hop off.” Along the water front with its laid back and decidedly modern atmosphere, we spent time along the marble-clad State Opera with its sleek and clean lines. We also went to the Edward Munch museum–unmistakeable with its tilted roof. I never thought I’d ever personally see Munch’s famous painting, “The Scream,” but here Kathy and I were, standing before it. He painted the picture because one day, while walking, he thought he heard a piercing scream from nature; this painting was the result. I wanted a selfie with a life-imitating art picture, but after three failed attempts, I gave up. Just too many people. We learned much about Munch–his loneliness and despair that comes through in his work.
We could easily have spent several days in Oslo, but only had this cruise port day. We left with a very favorable impression of this capital city of Norway.
A Fairy-Tale Castle and a Reunion
Who knew that one of the most beautiful castles anywhere rises from a lake island in far north Germany? The Dukes of Mecklenburg over centuries constructed what became one of the most important architectural accomplishments in the Romantic style. Located in the city of Schwerin, the castle has over 900 rooms and is topped with a black and gold dome. Imposing indeed! The gardens surrounding the castle were in bloom in yellow and purple and every angle of viewing as one circled the castle giving differing glimpses of the many pinnacles that arose from the structure. Interestingly, the castle houses the first Lutheran Church edifice constructed after the Reformation. A devastating fire in the castle did much damage, but reconstruction has restored the building, although today, the Great Hall has been refurbished to house the Mecklenburg-West Pomerania State Assembly, and one wing is now devoted to state government offices. The wood decorative flooring and ceiling work are outstanding features of the castle as are the beautifully decorated Ducal Apartments.
We ambled into the beautiful city of Schwerin which was close by. Fresh and “clean as a whistle,” the cobblestoned streets lead past soft pastel and white renaissance and romantic style buildings. We found a German pastry shop filled with tempting treats. Our hearts leapt when we saw poppyseed pie. We both love and enjoy baking poppyseed desserts; this one did not disappoint. On the way back to the ship, our tour director informed us that Mecklenburg-West Pomerania produces more energy from solar and wind than it can use. Energy export and an efficient power grid are issues not yet solved. Along the way, for about three miles, we saw multiple thousands of solar panels neatly tucked into hillsides and valleys as 150 wind turbines arose from the hilltops in this one energy installation.
Yesterday, September 20, we docked in Kiel, Germany, a port city near Hamburg. We were excited to meet up with friends, Chris and Lula Tiews, whom we had not seen in fifteen years. Chris is a pastor/missionary/professor who is both brilliant and passionate about his ministry. Fluent in multiple languages, most recently Farsi, the language of Iran, Chris has a significant ministry to the Iranian immigrants in Germany. He spoke excitedly of the multiple thousands of conversions to Christianity in this population. Our day progressed too quickly! We caught up on family and friends, current events, hopes and dreams; it seemed like we had never been apart all these years. For those you from Tomball, Chris was very instrumental in developing the sister city relationship with Telgte, Germany, that recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. We enjoyed our long lunch of German food. Happily, I got my favorite German meal of crisped pork knuckle with bread dumplings and red cabbage. On our way back to the ship, we stopped to view the Lutheran Cathedral which had beautiful artistry, but its huge crucifix hanging before the masterfully wood-carved altar typtich caught my eye–stunning and deeply moving! Wonderfully, an organist was playing the pipe organ as we walked reflectively in this spiritual space. A sign outside the cathedral read, “This is the place to come back home!” Indeed, may it be so!
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Amber Dice
We boarded the Norwegian Dawn on September 15 in Stockholm for our Baltic Cruise. I really like the freestyle dining on Norwegian with no set meal times and with numerous restaurant choices.The seas have been calm thus far and the entertainment quite good, and we are having a fun time.
Our first port was in Tallinn, Estonia. We didn’t book a tour as my research had shown that the old city was compact and in an upper town and lower town configuration. As soon as we departed the port terminal, I hailed a cab and asked for Kathy and me to be taken to the upper town–easier to walk down than up. We toured the Russian Orthodox Cathedral and the Lutheran Cathedral in the upper town. Both beautiful. A communion service was in progress in the Russian Orthodox Cathedral; we watched the beautiful service with ancient chanting for a few minutes. The cathedral has no pews; parishioners stand for the service. The Lutheran cathedral had ancient pews that showed much use over the centuries and were enclosed with half doors on the ends. A historical note–The three Baltic States were occupied by Russia after World War II. Russia began a campaign to ‘Russify’ the countries. One of the ways the Soviet Union employed was to move Russian citizens into the countries to provide a strong Russian presence. That is why one can find large well-maintained Russian Orthodox Churches in Estonia and Latvia (mainly Lutheran) and Lithuania (mainly Roman Catholic). The Soviet Union disintegrated before the project of Russification could be completed. The three Baltic nations have an aversion to Russian politics to this day.
Tallinn still has a very old world vibe and architecture. Spires from churches are abundant. Old fashioned rock cobblestone is the street pavement making walking on it for any length of time difficult. Sidewalks, thankfully, are more modern smooth cobblestone. We enjoyed walking into beautiful Lutheran Churches in the lower town, especially Holy Spirit with its masterful wood carvings and Biblical paintings that ring the balconies. We also had a goal of finding five amber dice for a Bonterra friend. Estonia is known for its amber products. We were having no luck, but after several stores, finally found some.
Next day found us in Riga, Latvia. Kathy and I have a bond with this city from my past as Board of Regents chair for Concordia Theological Seminary in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. One of the Board Chair’s responsibilities was to visit seminary extensions. CTS had one in Novosibirsk, Russia, and another in Riga, Latvia. We loved our time spent in Riga. Revisiting this lovely city was amazing! When we were last here the city was in massive repair and rejuvenation after the Russian occupation. Now, the city is old, yet fresh and new, full of modern conveniences. The plentiful and beautiful distinctive church towers still stand proudly amidst art nouveau buildings. Riga has more art nouveau buildings than any city in the world. The Riga Lutheran Cathedral is really stunning now with its Abbey-arched courtyard filled with medieval artifacts. I marveled at the art-embellished work on the cannon. Items of war made to look so beautiful–ironic, right? Our tour guide, Jerry, is a professor at the Lutheran Seminary in Riga. He was so kind to give Kathy and me so much of his time for a personal tour. He gave us many inside stories of the city and one is particularly poignant. The old Jewish synagogue wall is part of the seminary’s courtyard. A Dutch Reformed Church borders another portion of the seminary. During World War II, the pastor of the Dutch Reformed Church heard the Nazi officials were coming to round up Jews and burn their synagogues. He went to the Rabbi to warn him and proposed to take all the synagogue belongings and hide them in his church, while warning him to tell his congregation to flee or hide. This was done. When the Nazis came to burn the synagogue, the pastor and some community leaders came out of the synagogue and told the Nazi officials the synagogue was empty and not in use. They further exclaimed that to burn it would also cause other building connected to it to burn and that would enrage the citizens in the neighborhood. Seeing that this was true, the synagogue was not burned. Today, this Jewish synagogue is the only one prewar that remains in this part of the world that is still active. Interestingly, the Dutch citizens who supported the Dutch church never returned, having fled to the Netherlands, and the congregation closed. Recently, it was given to the Lutheran Church of Estonia and is now part of the Seminary where it is presently being refurbished. Our day in Riga came to a reluctant close but the awesome cityscape will remain as a beautiful memory.
Our evening was eventful and long since today we are at sea and we could stay up late. We ate in a specialty steak restaurant and attended the late showing of a Broadway presentation. It was all good.
Ode to a Swedish Pancake
“Flat and supple you smile at me,
Dark lingonberry eyes ablaze as setting sun;
Maple hair like liquid flowing everywhere.”
Saturdays at our home are often Swedish pancake mornings, a tradition started in our home by Kathy’s mom, Dr. Grandma, many years ago when she wintered with us. Our breakfasts each morning here in Stockholm are a Swedish pancake feast–every morning! Love them!
Our three days in Stockholm have been beautiful and interesting. The weather has been a grand “long sleeve” or “light jacket” joy. Our hotel is just outside the city center, with metro literally right outside. We were upgraded to a suite since we spend many nights in Marriotts–one of the perks. Speaking of metro, we have been impressed with the public transportation system here in Sweden. It is well laid out and easy to access–it is logical, clean and frequent. We have traveled many a mile since we arrived, especially so in Stockholm.
Gamla Stan is the old town historic island of Stockholm which covers many islands. It contains important national sites on its cobbled lanes. We spent a wonderful day wandering medieval alleys and streets. Old Swedish architecture in deep pastels dotted the cityscape, and plazas with fountains beckoned. I had forgotten that old cobblestone requires care in maneuvering, but we survived. Past the Nobel Prize Museum is the 700 room Royal Palace. We arrived in the massive courtyard just in time to witness the “changing of the guard” daily ceremony. It was an impressive program that not only saw the guard change, but was educational as an announcer gave instructions (Swedish and English) to the palace musicians to play the old musical commands for the arrival of the King; infantry charge; Swedish taps; cease warfare; return to barracks; etc. Fascinating. Nearby, the Palace Chapel (cathedral, Church of Sweden-Lutheran) was serene and beautiful. It had a huge pipe organ and ornate carvings with gold-covered pulpit, and the royal pews were covered with massive wooden and gold-adorned Swedish Royal Crowns. Across the island, the Old German Church (Church of Sweden-Lutheran) was the home of the large German population in Stockholm in medieval times. It is beautiful with much gold and paintings of the prophets and apostles hanging in straight lines around the entire space. It has great acoustics for its wonderful gold-covered pipe organ, and the church hosts regular music concerts. Along the way we stopped for lunch in a cozy antique Swedish establishment–my fish soup was amazing. I order fish soup everywhere we travel. It is no surprise how different they are because of different fish; different soup stock and spices; and different ingredients along with the fish. Mine was shell fish along with herring and cod in fish stock with seaweed and zucchini. We dined to candlelight mid-day and enjoyed it! We moseyed over to the Swedish Memorial Church housing the bodies of most Swedish Royalty over time. Its tall towers stand out over the horizon. Kathy shopped some at my insistence and is coming home with a distinctive Swedish sweater. Looks good!
Today we traveled to Uppsala, north of Stockholm via commuter train. Uppsala is the intellectual and spiritual heart of Sweden. We were blessed in that the “Cultural Festival,” highlighting the different cultures represented in Sweden today, was in full swing. I know we walked by six major stages playing many different kinds of music as we pursued the food stalls and enjoyed the ambiance. Upsalla is beautiful with a river running through the center and many bridges linking the two sides. A famous university is located here as is the largest church building in all the Nordic countries–the Church of Sweden-Lutheran cathedral. A fine example of brick gothic architecture, the interior is stunning. Painted walls and ceilings and beautiful wood carvings abound.
There is so much here we did not get to visit in our three days, but we lallygagged and ate and wandered and absorbed and enjoyed. Just the way I like to travel. By the way, our hotel upgrade came with spa passes. Not my cup of tea so much, but Kathy loved it!
Off the Beaten Path
Gothenburg on Sweden’s western coast faces toward Norway. It is a “young” city, having been constructed from ground up in the 1600s as a port for commerce and a naval bastion to ward off attacks from Sweden’s enemies–at that time Norway and Denmark. We had chosen Gothenburg as a rest stop on our journey not knowing much about it and knowing I would need time to recoup after our air flight into Copenhagen. My oncologist/hematologist had run tests before our trip and told me my immunoglobulins were decreasing again and he was further concerned for my kidneys, so he took me off my multiple myeloma maintenance drug for the duration of our trip. He wished us a great trip and told me I would resume immunoglobulin infusions when we returned home, at which time I would have further testing. As I advise folks, travel when you have the opportunity!
We enjoyed our three-day sojourn in Gothenburg. The weather was pleasant even when the temperatures dropped into the 50’s and low 60’s. This is my preferential weather. The city’s botanical gardens are one of Europe’s finest and were wonderful to stroll. They were close to our hotel and so we ventured there every day to soak up the sun and relish the clean fresh air. We were amused at the hen and chicks plants that were planted to look like rocks in patterns around various gardens. From a distance we did indeed think they were rocks. I will admit that I did sleep late every day until Kathy convinced me that I was missing a wonderful breakfast that was included in the cost of our hotel. How often does one get liver pâté (not braunschweiger), which I love, for breakfast? And Kathy was delighted to enjoy pickled herring for breakfast. As to the other meals, we enjoyed them. One night at a Scandinavian restaurant, the freshly- caught cod was cooked to perfection and more than delightful in a sour cream sauce with tender asparagus as a side. The chocolate pie turned out to be home made chocolate fudge with ice cream. It put a smile on our face remembering a deceased friend who presented us with a gift of homemade fudge every Christmas.
We spent time touring the old parts of the city and enjoyed walking along the canals that course through. All in all it was a restful and delightful “rest stop.” Tomorrow, we catch a bus for Stockholm. We had also bussed from Copenhagen to Gothenburg. I tried four months ago to get train tickets, but they were sold out. Determined to keep the itinerary I had planned, I opted for bus. Having not done this in “like forever,” I was a little nervous, but all is well. The bus depots are by the train stations and the busses are clean and not crowded. They are like a comfortable tourist bus. We survived just fine, proving once again that where there is a will in travel, there is a way!
Copenhagen, the Comfortable Upscale
Frederik’s Church, (The Marble Church), a congregation of the Danish State Church – Lutheran
I noticed the lights as soon as we left the Copenhagen airport–suspended canisters hanging above the center of the roads everywhere our taxi drove–no lampposts. The clean appearance mirrored the cleanliness of the city. Our Marriott was situated on an island connected with walk bridges to an area of restaurants and shopping. We were tired from a long day of traveling and were thankful for a comfortable bed. As I dozed, I dreamed of the air flight into the city from Frankfurt, Germany. As we flew over Denmark, I noticed the many islands of this far north archipelago–green forested islands and beautiful plowed fields, each farmstead ringed with trees marking the owner’s land. Fall is in the air and temperatures are in the 70’s daytime. I noticed some yellow in the trees, and we saw vines turning magenta.
Today, a Sunday, was a wonderful day. We ventured into the central city and toured Rosenborg Castle with its beautiful turrets reaching high into the sky, home of Danish Royalty over the centuries, and now a state museum. Filled with tapestries and painted flooring, the castle sits in a grand park and botanical garden. The Great Hall features large silver lions in front of the royal thrones, and the basement contains the royal jewels, ceremonial garb and crowns of the monarchy. Rather dazzling! We walked the short distance from the Rosenborg to the Amalienborg Palace, home of today’s royal family of King Frederik X. The palace consists of four nearly identical Scandinavian Renaissance buildings surrounding an octagonal plaza with an equestrian statue of King Frederik IV in the center. Fur-capped soldiers stood at attention around the plaza, and the state flags flew indicating the monarch was in residence. It is obvious that Copenhagen is upscale in a very comfortable and livable way. Parks abound, and well laid-out bike lanes are filled with folks out to enjoy the area. We laughed when we saw a young couple–woman biking and man in a large basket in the front (just the way it should be–a male chauvinist might say). I will look for one when we return home–Kathy insists! Sea air and breezes grace the lanes of handsome Danish-designed modern buildings amidst old Scandinavian Renaissance architecture. We enjoyed walking and understood why the people of Denmark are consistently rated the happiest people on earth.
Hungry, we found a Cambodian restaurant–our first Cambodian meal ever–in Denmark! I enjoyed my beef and rice noodle soup, even through the peppers were HOT! Kathy ate some puréed tuna with chili seasoning and rice chips. Tasty. We came back to the hotel, to chill and, God willing, have a great night’s sleep. Tomorrow, we leave for Goteborg (Gothenburg), Sweden’s second largest city. Oops, I forgot…after we landed in Copenhagen on Saturday, Kathy made a beeline for Danish pickled herring. She has some Danish heritage and loves everything Danish, food wise. She ATE IT ALL (even slapped my hand when I reached for some) with dark bread and Danish butter–need I say more?
An Addendum–While Kathy edited our photos from today, I went for a walk outside our hotel. I’ll take her after we post this blog. The stylish apartments along the waterway have balconies with live plantings overlooking the sea and the islands beyond. A boardwalk is strewn with people sunbathing and visiting. Awesome boats ply the canals and ocean beyond. In the near distance are striking buildings and I see a raised electric metro train moving toward the central city. “Beautiful people” are swimming in the sea in areas marked off by floating pontoons while others dine in outdoor cafes. I noticed that none of the bikes in the bike parking areas had chains and padlocks! Yes, very upscale in a very livable way!
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